Ellen's Place 302 Skincare Products

Acne Scarring

Acne Scars... treatment options

You will be most successful in treating acne scars AS THEY DEVELOP. For the most part, acne scars tend to correct themselves in the first year. But for many others, that first year sees an aggravation of the problem and leads to permanent disfigurement.

Let’s first consider the first year of scar formation and then look at scars that have taken root and been visible for considerable time.

With formative acne scars, a variety of factors are at work. One scenario strikes us as quite common: a skin gland develops an inflammation aggravated by bacteria. The skin, in order to protect itself, quickly isolates or cocoons this inflammation with highly cross-linked protein, that is, protein which interlocks into a kind of gristle. Cross-linking has a good and bad component. For the reticular fiber and collagen of the skin, cross-linking is essential, similar to the forming of the strands of a cable or a rope. But, carried to excess, cross-linking forms knots in that strand. These knots displace the synovial fluid (hyaluronic acid) and become impervious to normal enzyme functions which work to cut apart this cross-linked material.

(Sidebar: Some doctors have tried injecting hyaluronic acid into scar areas. While this will not correct the problem, it may smooth the area... temporarily)

In other words, in the normal life span of a collagen fiber over several months, the strand will form by cross-linking and then, when the cross-linking becomes excessive (as the cell ages), enzymes are called forth to cut it into smaller pieces and these waste products are carried off and excreted.

In acne scar formation, that disposal process is overwhelmed by the immune system, under the stress of hormonal imbalance, and a slug of poorly formed highly cross-linked gristle forms around the bacteria zone. Often times, the inflamed tissue in the resulting cocoon is decomposed by the bacteria and a pit remains.... for life.

Addressing the scar formation, or the tendency to scar formation should be done in a two-pronged attack. Good nutrition will be your strongest weapon. It is astonishing how quickly a proper nutrition program can bring the problem under control.

The second prong in the attack has two components. One is to kill bacteria and the other is to limit excess cross-linking. Both can be accomplished with 302 products

Acne Scar Remodeling - A 302 approach

Acids must never be introduced as a part of a daily routine to treat acne scarring. Acids will worsen the tendency for scar formation in aggressive acne.

Acids have the distinct tendency (this includes salicylic acid - which is not a true acid, but an aromatic compound - glycolic, lactic and kojic acids, among others) to create irritation and cyclic bouts of acne (i.e. gone for awhile, then back with a vengeance - usually on approximately 30 day cycles).

Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) is unstable in air and will quickly (within seconds) oxidize - so it will have no effect except to provide a weakly charged, ineffectual compound to the skin. (This is fundamental chemistry which marketing departments may wish to deny but still remains fact.)

It is a myth that excess sebum production is provoked by the stratum corneum (the part of the epidermis visible to us). The sebum gland, indeed all the skin glands functions are not blocked by these outer layers of skin cells (dead or otherwise).

Any consistently applied exfoliation will also increase the tendency to scar in aggressive acne. This means micro-dermabrasion and enzyme peels and simple scrubs. Done frequently enough these can also induce hyper-pigmentation and rosacea in acne patients. What is frequently enough? Once a month would push the envelope in our observations and experience.

The use of benzoyl peroxide is indicated only in severe cases of cystic acne - and then only briefly as it will quickly weaken the skin and make it even more vulnerable. A 2.5% solution, as found in ProActiv®, may have its victories, but when consistently applied over time, we find, as do many others, that the skin deteriorates.

Again, when we address acne and acne scarring, we must speak in broad generalities. There is no question that many people have war stories with happy endings using any number of harsh chemicals and regimes. That is fine. But as a general approach to skin under acne stress, we feel the problem/solution paradigm, again, fails. Only through the comprehensive approach, through nutrition, topicals, and emotional health can you address this as the imbalance it is.

This is not to say that medical intervention techniques are not valid. They are, however, a stop-gap measure.

Intervention using antibiotics and orally dosed retinoids is a last resort. Combine that with a benzoyl peroxide solution topically applied and you have pulled out all the stops. This approach, however, is too often used immediately and because of that, many horror stories have occurred – enough that the FDA has taken action to restrict access to orally taken retinoids.

Acne patients tend to apply several different things at once to their skin and there is a constant product interactions dynamic at work, which may conceal the true nature of the skin.

A sufferer who has a compulsion to apply topical products, is our toughest assignment. In these cases, we demand the patient stop all topicals except a neutral cleanser for a period of time so we can be certain of what we are dealing with – after all, it may be topical addiction. If the patient refuses, or slides back, during the period of cleansing only, then their lack of commitment to the program has eliminated any change for a successful outcome.

If you can force yourself to cleanse only, you have accomplished much. Assuming you have, you can use 302 Face & Body Bar alone or in combination with 302 Acne Cleanser. Ozone devices (purchased by the consumer for home use) are an excellent method to control daily outbreaks and kill the bacteria.

Use 302 A Boost twice per week. Three times in extreme cases. If acne continues, an orally prescribed antibiotic may be necessary. If this is the case, switch to 302 Drops when the oral antibiotic regime begins and reduce the 302 A Boost to once per week. Continue with 302 cleansers.

In severe cases where oral retinoids are prescribed, you may use 302 Drops but it is preferable to use the 302 cleansers only during this time. There is no need for 302 A Boost if oral retinoids are provided.

In some very difficult cases, the oral retinoid has not performed and there is also a strong inflammation present. Here we would advise a mild benzoyl peroxide wash several times per week, 302 Protein Drops and the 302 cleansers. Cystic acne may require this approach.

Use no moisturizers, sunscreens should be powders, never use sunscreen lotions. It is difficult but essential for you to keep away from moisturizers. These will aggravate the problem and create a new problem subset: topical addiction. Skin under acne stress has a pronounced tendency to topical addiction.

As you stabilize the acne breakout in the case of emerging scarring, you must begin immediate application of 302 Protein Drops. The take home regime should be 3 to 4 times per week.

The schedule of 302 topicals should remain at 3 days per week for 302 Drops, 2 days per week for 302 C Boost and one day for 302 A Boost. If minor acne tends to come and go, the 302 A boost could be increased to twice per week. Maintain the 302 cleansers: 302 Face & Body Bar and 302 Acne Cleanser, alone or together.

The patient may also use a heating pad, set to lowest setting, 3 times per week for about 15 minutes on the affected area. If any inflammation or irritation is present, discontinue this. Be certain the area is merely warm, not hot.
Increase circulation with gentle massage.

These approaches and regimes should be used even for very old scars. Typically, changes should be evident in the first 12 weeks, enough to give promise to continue.

After 12 weeks, you may introduce an ultrasound regime. If you obtain an ultrasound device on your own, you should be certain you are not over applying the device.